Мастер-класс смотреть онлайн: Изготавливаем настенные часы в стиле Loft

Часы — один из лучших способов украсить вашу стену: красиво и функционально.

Часы в стиле Loft — идеальное дополнение интерьера любого помещения. Их отличает брутальность, грубоватость внешнего вида, простота форм, минимализм в оформлении.
Такие часы удачно впишутся в любой интерьер. Состаренный внешний вид будет придавать изюминку комнате. Выполнены из массива карагача и нержавеющей стали.
Сегодня будем мастерить часы из карагача в стиле Loft. Для этого нам понадобиться труба из нержавейки, массив карагача и часовой механизм.

Толщина часов будет 4 см. Делаем разметку на трубе и отрезаем с помощью болгарки и диска по металлу.

После того как отрезали часть от трубы, шлифуем ее 40-м лепестковым абразивом и убираем все шероховатости.

Теперь подготавливаем основу для механизма из массива карагача. Выравниваем на фуганке.

Для подготовки под полировку прогоняем через рейсмус.

Далее накладываем наш круг на подготовленную основу и размечаем место среза.

Отпиливаем лобзиком по разметке.

Шлифуем неровности болгаркой абразив 80.

Контрольная примерка. Если все ещё есть неровности, проходим опять болгаркой.

Теперь с помощью карщетки для браширования старим поверхность. Со всех сторон, кроме торцов, они должны плотно прилегать к трубе.

Обжигаем древесину газовой горелкой.

Слегка зашкуриваем 240-м абразивом, получится эффект старенного дерева.

Делаем разметку под механизм. Отмечаем центр, высверливаем отверстие сверлом по дереву 8-ка.

Прикладываем механизм и отмечаем размеры механизма.

С помощью линейки размечаем контур.

Ручным фрезером вырезаем отверстие под механизм. Нам понадобится пазовая фреза 10-ка.

Кромочной фрезой делаем фазку.

Вставляем заготовку в трубу и крепим ее мебельными болтами.

Покрываем заготовку маслом.

Вставляем механизм.

Старим стрелки 240-й шкуркой. Чтоб сочетались со стилем Loft.

Одеваем стрелки и наши часы готовы!

Всем спасибо за внимание!

90000 Loft Conversion: Beginner’s Guide to Extending Up 90001 90002 A loft conversion is among the most popular home improvement projects in the UK for easing space pressure on the rest of the home. It’s a great solution for properties in urban areas or where a two-storey extension does not make financial sense. 90003 90002 Loft conversion costs start at around £ 15,000 for a single ‘room-in-the-roof’ conversion, up to around £ 55,000 for a ready-made room that is manufactured off-site and then craned into position.90003 90002 Nationwide has estimated that an additional bedroom and bathroom could add around 20% to the value of a three-bed, one bathroom house (but do be aware of area price ceilings). This could equate to £ 46,000 based on an average house price of £ 230,292 (average house price in June 2019, Office of National Statistics). 90003 90002 Most loft conversions tend to fall under Permitted Development, but you will need planning permission if you live in a listed building or a designated area. You will also need to adhere to the Building Regulations.90003 90002 You will also have to consider your existing roof structure and the need for a new staircase, as well as how you will light, heat and ventilate the new room (s). 90003 90002 This guide will explain the process and highlight the different options available and their costs. 90003 90002 If you are looking for ideas for your new space, check out our gallery of great loft conversion ideas. 90003 90002 90003 90018 How Much Does a Loft Conversion Cost? 90019 90002 Your loft conversion cost will depend on multiple factors including the existing roof structure and pitch, specification and the extent of remodelling work or alterations needed to accommodate the new staircase.90003 90002 Here, we’ve listed the different types of loft conversion and their approximate costs: 90003 90002 90025 Room in the Roof Loft Conversion 90026 90003 90002 Prices 90025 start at around £ 15,000 90026 for a room in the roof loft conversion, which is the cheapest and most straight forward option. 90003 90002 This will usually involve: 90003 90034 90035 the reinforcement of the floor 90036 90035 a couple of skylights 90036 90035 added insulation 90036 90035 a staircase to the loft 90036 90035 electrics, lighting and heating 90036 90035 fire safety measures to comply with Building Regulations such as fire doors and smoke alarms.90036 90047 90002 90025 Dormer Loft Conversion 90026 90003 90002 This is as the above, but with the addition of dormer windows. This will increase the usable floorspace and can be used to add head height which gives you more options when it comes to placement of the stairs. 90003 90002 A dormer loft extension will 90025 cost upwards of £ 20,000 90026. However the average dormer loft conversion with a double bedroom and en suite costs about £ 35,000- £ 45,000. 90003 90002 90025 Changing the Roof Structure for a Loft Conversion 90026 90003 90002 This option is the most expensive as it requires the complex removal and rebuild of the existing roof.This could be a hip-to-gable loft conversion or a mansard conversion, for example. You will need to hire a designer and secure planning permission. 90003 90002 This type of work is likely to cost 90025 upwards of £ 40,000 90026. 90003 90002 90025 Ready-made room options will cost around £ 55,000 90026 for the average home. These are fabricated off-site and then craned into position. 90003 90018 Do I Need Planning Permission for a Loft Conversion? 90019 90002 Always check with your local planning office before you start any work.90003 90002 Not always. In most cases, loft conversions tend to be considered Permitted Development (PD), but your design will need to adhere to a number of specified parameters. 90003 90002 If you plan on extending beyond the limits and conditions of PD, or your property is listed or located in a conversation area, then you will need to apply for planning permission. You will also need planning permission if you are altering the roof height or shape (which may be the case if you have to raise it for headroom).90003 90002 Rooflights and dormers can be installed under PD, but they must not sit forward of the roof plane on the principal elevation, nor must they be higher than the highest part of the existing roof. 90003 90018 Loft Conversion Building Regulations 90019 90002 When converting a loft, you will need Building Regulations approval. A building control surveyor will inspect your conversion at various stages and will be responsible for issuing a 90025 completion certificate 90026 upon final inspection.90003 90002 If your home is semi-detached or terraced, then you will need to notify your neighbours of your planned work if it falls under the requirements of the Party Wall Act. 90003 90002 When it comes to a loft conversion, you are most likely to be concerned with Parts L, K, B and P of the Building Regulations. 90003 90002 90025 Part L 90026 of the Building Regulations requires U-value targets for thermal efficiency to be met when you convert your loft into habitable space. 90003 90002 90025 Part K 90026 concerns preventative measures from falling, collisions and impact, and requires a minimum headroom of 2m for all escape routes, including the stairs (although the rules are relaxed a little for staircases providing access to a loft conversion).90003 90002 90025 Parts B and P 90026 are concerned with fire and electrical safety respectively. Complying with Building Regs ‘requirements on fire safety can be complex. In two or more storey homes, where an escape window would be more than 4.5m from the ground level, a ‘protected’ staircase needs to lead down to an exterior door — which can cause some issues if your staircase rises from a room, rather than the hallway on the ground floor, or your ground floor is open plan. There are typically solutions in both instances, but this area needs consideration with your design and / or build team.90003 90018 Can All Lofts be Converted? 90019 90002 Assessing your loft space’s suitability for conversion involves considering numerous factors, including: 90003 90034 90035 available head height 90036 90035 roof pitch 90036 90035 roof structure 90036 90035 obstacles such as water tanks or chimney stacks 90036 90047 90002 Top Tip 90003 90002 Ask your designer to clearly illustrate how much headroom there will be across the floor in the finished space. 90003 90002 Some people are disappointed by how much standing space they actually have, and this is not always easily conveyed on plans.90003 90002 90025 Measuring Head Height for a Loft Conversion 90026 90003 90002 When you measure from the bottom of the ridge timber to the top of the ceiling joist, 90025 you need to have at least 2.2m of usable space for a conversion to be suitable 90026 . 90003 90002 While the Building Regs impose no minimum ceiling height for habitable rooms, you will need to factor in the 2m headroom required for stairs (although you could relax this to 1.8m on the edge of the stair if needs be). 90003 90002 If the initial roof space inspection reveals a head height of less than 2.2m, there are two available — but costly — solutions that will require professional input. 90003 90002 90003 90138 As part of his renovation project, architect Chris Dyson completed a mansard conversion in order to accommodate a new small loft storey, which has been utilised as a sleek, contemporary kitchen 90139 (Image credit: Nigel Rigden) 90002 Solution 1: Raise the Roof 90003 90002 This is structurally feasible, but the major problems are the high cost and getting planning permission approval.If the whole roof area needs removing, a covered scaffold structure, to protect the house from the weather during the works, would also be required. 90003 90002 Solution 2: Lower the Ceiling in the Room Below 90003 90002 This will require all the existing ceilings in question to be removed, causing much mess. With this method a plate will need to be bolted to the wall using shield anchors or rawlbolts, for the new floor joists to hang from. There is also a need for a suitable tie between the roof structure and the dwarf wall formed, to prevent the roof spreading.90003 90002 You will also have to assess whether the space you are gaining in the loft makes up for the space you are losing in the rooms below. 90003 90002 (90025 MORE: 90026 How to convert your loft if you have a difficult roof construction) 90003 90002 The higher the angle of the roof pitch, the higher the central head height is likely to be, and if dormers are used or the roof is redesigned, the floor area, and potential for comfortable headroom, can be increased. 90003 90002 Traditional frame type roof structures are often the most suitable type for loft conversions, allowing the space to be opened up relatively easily and inexpensively.The rafters may need to be strengthened or additional supports added (your structural engineer will advise on what is required). 90003 90002 Trussed roofs require greater structural input, normally involving the insertion of steel beams between loadbearing walls for the new floor joists to hang on and the rafter section to be supported on — together with a steel beam at the ridge. 90003 90002 Without the roof space for water tanks and plumbing, the heating and hot water system may have to be replaced with a sealed system.90003 90002 Unvented hot water cylinders make a better choice than replacing the boiler with a combi boiler, but they do take up a cupboard-sized room, which you will have to find space and budget for. 90003 90018 Do I Need a Designer for my Loft Conversion? 90019 90002 While you can design a loft conversion yourself, employing the services of an architect or designer is advisable. Another alternative is a design and build company. 90003 90002 You have two main options (both will deal with planning permission, if required, and Building Regulations approval): 90003 90002 Taking this route means that you can steer the design to your exact, bespoke specifications, but remember that, as this is likely to be a relatively small project, the design fees are likely to be a high percentage of the overall costs.90003 90002 Your architect or designer will produce drawings which you then put out to tender, and you may find that you need to also hire a structural engineer. 90003 90002 (90025 MORE 90026: How to find the right architect) 90003 90002 For an all-inclusive service (and price) then a design and build contractor is a great option. Design solutions and details are more likely to be standardised so you may find that you have less creative flexibility. 90003 90002 90003 90138 This loft was converted as part of a whole house renovation project and features a new master suite with French doors leading out onto a roof terrace 90139 (Image credit: Jeremy Phillips) 90002 90138 Editor’s note: If you’re after information to help choose a loft conversion vendor that’s right for you, fill in the questionnaire below and we can provide you with information from a variety of vendors for free: 90139 90003 90018 Adding a Staircase to a Loft Conversion 90019 90002 The ideal location for a staircase to land is in line with the roof ridge: this will make best use of the available height above the staircase.90003 90002 The 90025 minimum height requirement 90026 above the pitch line is 2m, although this could be reduced to 1.9m in the centre, and 1.8m to the side of a stair. 90003 90002 In practice, the actual position will depend upon the layout of the floor below, and where necessary the available height can be achieved using a dormer or adding a rooflight above the staircase or, if appropriate, converting a hip roof end to a gable . 90003 90034 90035 90025 Maximum number of steps: 90026 the maximum number of steps in a straight line is 16 (typical installation usually only requires 13 steps) 90036 90035 90025 Step size: 90026 the maximum step rise is 220mm, whereas the step depth or ‘ going ‘is a minimum of 220mm; these measurements are taken from the pitch point.The step normally has a nose that projects 16-20mm in front of the pitch line. However, the ratio of size must not exceed the maximum angle of pitch requirement of 42 °. Any winders must have a minimum of 50mm at the narrowest point. The width of steps is unregulated, but in practice the winders are likely to limit the reduction in width. 90036 90035 90025 Balustrading: 90026 The height minimum is 900mm above the pitch line, and any spindles must have a separation distance that a 100mm sphere can not pass through.90036 90047 90002 (90025 MORE 90026: Staircase Design Guide) 90003 90018 Do I Need to Replace the Ceiling Joists When Converting a Loft? 90019 90002 In most cases, additional new joists will be required to comply with the Building Regulations as existing ceiling joists are unlikely to be able to take a conversion floor. 90003 90002 Your structural engineer will specify the size and grade required. 90003 90002 The new joists span between load-bearing walls, and are normally raised slightly above the existing ceiling plasterwork by using spacers below the joist ends.This spacing must be sufficient to prevent any new floor joist deflection from touching the ceiling plaster below. 90003 90002 The new joists run alongside the existing joists. Above window and door openings, thicker timbers are used to bridge the opening, so that pressure is not put on the existing opening lintel. 90003 90002 Rolled steel joists (known as RSJs) are also specified to distribute the load, and in some installations are used to carry the ends of the new joists. If head height is limited, then thicker joists, more closely spaced, can be specified.90003 90018 Bringing Natural Light into a Loft Conversion 90019 90002 90003 90138 These homeowners have created a bar area in their loft space 90139 (Image credit: Jeremy Phillips) 90002 You have two feasible options when it comes to bringing in natural light — rooflights or dormers . 90003 90002 The most straightforward method is to use rooflights that follow the pitch line of the roof. This type is fitted by removing the tiles and battens where the rooflight will be fitted. The rafters are cut to make way for the rooflight after suitably reinforcing the remaining rafters.90003 90002 The rooflight frame is then fitted and flashings added before making good the surrounding tiling. 90003 90002 This type of window is the most economic, and more likely to be allowed without planning permission. 90003 90002 Dormers not only give natural light but can add space to a loft conversion. They are particularly effective where the pitch angle is high, as the useful floor area can be increased. 90003 90002 The mansard type will give maximum conversion roof space because it projects the maximum available head height, thus giving a greater usable floor area.A hip to gable conversion has a similar effect. 90003 90002 Dormers and other similar conversions are normally installed by opening up the roof, and cutting the required specified timbers to size on site. 90003 90002 Some loft conversion companies will make the dormers off site in their workshop and lift into place. This process allows quick installation, and quick weatherproofing. 90003 90018 Adding Artificial Lighting in a Loft Conversion 90019 90002 As in any successful interior scheme, different light sources should be combined, including ambient (substituting for daylight), task (reading, working) and accent (to add atmosphere) lighting.90003 90002 Lighting options on sloping ceilings include downlights and track lighting. A section of flat ceiling beneath the ridge or within a dormer window is the ideal surface for downlights. Where the ridge is higher, it may be possible to suspend pendants or a track lighting system. 90003 90002 Ambient lighting can also be provided using floor and table lamps, providing they are on a switched lighting circuit so that they can be controlled, and ideally dimmed from the main wall switches. 90003 90018 Heating a Loft Conversion 90019 90002 Extensions normally increase the heat load requirement of the house and so the boiler has to be upgraded, but a loft conversion may require little extra capacity as the space will be well insulated and can improve the overall energy efficiency of the house.90003 90002 Options for heat emitters in attic rooms include radiators, underfloor heating, or a combination of both, perhaps with electric underfloor heating mats in bathrooms. 90003 90002 However, if a bathroom is added, a boiler upgrade may be necessary. It is a good idea to switch to an unvented system that does not require header tanks but relies on mains pressure (as long as it’s at least 1.5bar). 90003 90002 (90025 MORE: 90026 Guide to Underfloor Heating) 90003 90002 90003 90138 Jo Dyson created a new loft space by extending, creating a light-filled space that houses an open-plan living room, kitchen and dining area.Jo added multiple rooflights, sash windows and bi fold doors to flood the loft space with natural light 90139 (Image credit: Simon Maxwell) 90018 Insulating a Loft Conversion 90019 90002 The roof structure can be insulated in one of two main ways: 90003 90002 The most straightforward is to use a 90025 ‘cold roof’ 90026 method. 90003 90002 This involves filling the space between the rafters with 70mm-thick slab foam insulation, ensuring that there is 50mm spacing between the roofing felt and the insulation (for ventilation via the roof and soffit vents).90003 90002 In addition, 30mm slab insulation is attached to the inside of the rafters, giving a total of 100mm of insulation. The rafter thickness is often less than 120mm, so a batten may be required along each rafter to allow the 50mm spacing and the 70mm insulation. 90003 90002 The roof section requires 300mm of mineral wool insulation (e.g. Rockwool), or 150mm of slab foam insulation, such as Celotex. 90003 90002 This method uses 100mm Celotex insulation or similar over the rafters, and a covering capping, followed by the tile battens and tiles.This is not really a practical option unless the roof coverings have been stripped off. It could be used with a dormer, especially if it has a flat roof. 90003 90002 Continuity of insulation between walls and roof is required to avoid any cold bridging. The dormer walls can be insulated with 100mm Celotex between the studwork. 90003 90002 The internal partition walls use a 100mm quilt that will provide sound insulation. Plasterboard is attached to one side of the wall then the quilt inserted, followed by plasterboard on the other side.90003 90002 Insulation is also placed between floor joists, and this is typically 100mm-thick Rockwool fibre or similar — mainly for its sound-reduction properties. 90003 90002 Your Building Control inspector will specify exactly what you require. 90003 90002 (90025 MORE 90026: How to insulate a roof) 90003 90002 Insulating the floor can be achieved by a mineral fibre quilt laid between the joists. Use the heavier, denser sound insulation quilt. 90003 90002 It is often necessary to insulate party walls — both against heat loss and noise.Introducing timber studwork with mineral fibre insulation will allow you to achieve both and it can be covered with sound-rated plasterboard. 90003 90018 Getting Ventilation Right in a Loft Conversion 90019 90002 To maximise energy efficiency, the roof space should be made as airtight as possible, and to counter this it is essential to introduce controlled ventilation to prevent the risk of condensation and maintain good air quality. 90003 90002 This means including background ventilation (airbricks and trickle vents) and rapid ventilation (via windows), plus extract ventilation in wet areas, such as bathrooms or a kitchen.90003 90002 Attic bathrooms are not required to have a window providing the extract fan can provide rapid ventilation. 90003 90002 (90025 MORE: 90026 How to solve condensation) 90003 90018 Adding a Bathroom in a Loft Conversion 90019 90002 If you are adding a bathroom you’ll need to think about the location of existing services. Adding hot and cold water supplies is straightforward, branched off the existing plumbing system either at the boiler or from the floor below. Flexible plastic plumbing is easy to thread through the joists.90003 90002 Existing soil pipes are likely to be vented above roof level and it may be possible to boss a connection into this, or into another soil pipe on the floor below. Where there is no existing soil stack you may be able to add one; otherwise, a smallbore flexible waste pipe can be used to connect to the drains. 90003 90002 If you are going to put a bedroom in the attic then it makes sense to try and fit in a bathroom, but do follow these tips: 90003 90034 90035 Place a shower where there is full headroom 90036 90035 A bath can be tucked under the eaves 90036 90035 A WC ideally needs full headroom, as does a washbasin 90036 90035 A wetroom can be a space-efficient option, but needs full tanking 90036 90035 Use the voids in stud walls for concealed shower and tap mixers 90036 90035 concealed cisterns in metal frames for building into studwork are ideal 90036 90035 Good lighting and large wall-to-wall mirrors create the illusion of space 90036 90035 Wall-mounted sanitaryware helps make a small bathroom appear more spacious.90036 90047 90018 Loft Conversion Fire Safety 90019 90002 Ensure that the new windows are large enough and low enough to escape from: 90003 90034 90035 Egress window openings are needed to serve all first floor habitable rooms, but not bathrooms 90036 90035 Openings should be at least 450mm x 450mm and at least 0.33m2 in area 90036 90035 Rooflights are usually top opening — you must ensure the bottom of the opening is between 800mm and 1,100mm from the floor 90036 90047 90002 Things become more complicated if your loft conversion transforms a two- storey house into a three-storey home: 90003 90034 90035 Escape windows that are over 4.5m from ground level are not viable. Instead, the Building Regs require a protected stair enclosure that leads right down to the final exterior door 90036 90035 If your staircase rises from a room, rather than a hall, you have two choices: 90362 90035 It can be entirely enclosed within a hallway to an external door 90036 90035 The staircase can be enclosed in a lobby at the base of the stairs. The lobby will have two separate doors, to offer a choice of either a front or back route of escape.These doors and the lobby walls will need to be fire-resistant and most likely open outwards into the rooms to avoid fouling the bottom of the stairs. If the doors do not open outwards into the rooms, they will be acceptable as long as they create viable options for escape in the event of a ground floor fire 90036 90367 90036 90035 It can be entirely enclosed within a hallway to an external door 90036 90035 The staircase can be enclosed in a lobby at the base of the stairs. The lobby will have two separate doors, to offer a choice of either a front or back route of escape.These doors and the lobby walls will need to be fire-resistant and most likely open outwards into the rooms to avoid fouling the bottom of the stairs. If the doors do not open outwards into the rooms, they will be acceptable as long as they create viable options for escape in the event of a ground floor fire 90036 90035 For open plan homes, where the staircase lands in an open plan space, a sprinkler system may be the only option. 90036 90047 90002 The new floor joists of your loft conversion will need to offer at least 30 minutes ‘worth of fire protection, which could mean replastering the ceilings in those first floor rooms below.90003 90002 The loft room will also have to be separated by a fire door, either at the top or bottom of the new stairs. 90003 90002 The existing doors on the stairway to both ground and first floor should be able to provide 20 minutes of fire resistance or be replaced. They can not be glazed either (unless with fire-rated glass), so you may want to consider windows or rooflights to bring daylight to the stairwell. 90003 90002 Mains-powered smoke alarms should be installed on each floor of your home and interlinked so that they all sound off when one is activated.Most have a rechargeable battery as a back up that allows the supply to be extended from a lighting circuit if necessary. 90003 90002 Wireless, radio-linked alarms can be fitted if you can not hardwire to the ground floor ceiling. 90003 90002 (90025 MORE 90026: Part B of the Building Regulations) 90003 .